I’ve had heaps of compliments lavished upon me, or rater on the Honey Badger, both around San Francisco, and up here in Sammamish, WA. I’ve tried to get an ‘elevator pitch’ spiel for it, mentioning SlingFin and emphasizing durable, versatile, customizable, lightweight, etc. I’ve got a feeling there’ll be a lot of interest in this rucksack.
First of all, there might be a small problem: I had to file down the barbs on computer pouch clips because I couldn’t release them by pinching them with my fingers, and before filing them down, had to use pliers to release them. This isn’t a problem with my top pocket clips. Maybe a different batch. Anyway, you might want to check the release of the clips you have there.
Here are two alternative small clips, with the clip from the top pocket on the left for comparison. I got both from Seattle Fabrics (link at bottom), and let me know if you’d like me to send you any to play with. The one on the right I think is made by YKK, and has a single push release, which potentially could release inadvertently:
Other than that, I’ve been having too much fun customizing my Honey Badger. Fantastic concept.
No problem with the original hinge yet. (I do have the improved replacement)
I use the ‘illumination’ feature several times a week as I’m often walking to work before light. Super feature!
For increased security to prevent inadvertent opening in aircraft baggage, latch the magnetic clip underneath the front loop, and clip the chest clip over the top:
For list of materials I used, see bottom.
I fastened Sewable D-Rings (drilled ø 3/16″ holes in center of tab) to the screws on the lid for lashing stuff to the top. The lid could have the D-Rings on the inside too (I didn’t bother).
Sides — Outside
I’ve put Sewable D-Ring tabs on the sides with 5” x 5” rivet spacing. At first I thought this detracted from the cleaner appearance of the original, but I’ve grown to like them (if you don’t look too closely at the rivets — it can be difficult to prevent some of the rivets tilting over). Whereas the rivets have a lower profile, the screws and locking nuts would be significantly easier to assemble.
Sides — Inside
To prevent stuff rattling around when partially filled, I added Sewable D-Rings inside, using the same rivets as their counterparts on the outside. I’ve used a length of orange shock cord, doubled over, that threads through upper D-Rings, and hooks to lower ones.
To illuminate the rucksack, I use a headlamp, which (obviously) can be useful as a headlamp in its own right. I keep it wrapped around the computer sleeve, and propped up by the crossing point of the orange shock cord that secures the computer sleeve from swinging and can secure books, files, etc.
The only shock cord size available to me in reflective orange was ø 1/8″, so I doubled it up for the inside for firmness. I used a double fisherman’s knot to join the two ends, and tied the doubled-over shock cord into the double fisherman’s knot. The ends of the shock cord are sealed with 1/8” heat shrinking tube.
The materials I’ve used:
- Sewable D-Ring (drilled ø 3/16″ holes in center of tab)
- ø 10mm Double Cap Rivet (size medium)
- 1/8” reflective shock cord (orange) x 6’ length (doubled over)
- 1/8” heat-shrink tube to seal ends of shock cord
- Cord Hooks
- 2.5mm reflective cord (black) x 6’ length
- Nite Ize Figure 9 (size small)
- Petal Tikkina headlamp ($19.95), hours of battery life. Doubles as a headlamp…er, obviously
Outdoor & Recreational Fabrics | Marine Fabrics & Vinyl | Industrial Fabrics – Seattle Fabrics
Tandy Leather | Leathercraft and Leather Craft Supplies
REI Co-op: Outdoor Clothing, Gear and Footwear from Top Brands – REI.com
I’d like to see other people’s customizations for inspiration, but I suppose the Feedback feature at the bottom of the web page would serve for this. You could mention the screw size used is #8-32 stainless steel button head cap screw x 1/4” long, with nylon insert lock nut, and washer.